Northern detours

Traveling is a balancing act between must-sees and personal discoveries. Take the time, too, for less well-known sights—the so-called detour destinations that offer the chance to slow down and experience nature without the crowds or usual tourist infrastructure.

Here are some of our favorite detour destinations in North Iceland. 

Selfoss Waterfall

Selfoss, the waterfall, deserves sympathy. Some travelers wrongly assume its location in Selfoss, the town hundreds of kilometers away to the South. Secondly, it is neighboring Europe’s most powerful waterfall, the down-the-stream Dettifoss. How can it be worth an extra two kilometers of walking after seeing a continental icon? There are two reasons: the walk along the mighty Jökulsá River is nice and easy, and Selfoss has a wide cascade compared with the taller Dettifoss. Photographers love this sight because it is easy to get close to it. 

Katlar at Hólmatungur 

Recent road improvements along Jökulsárgljúfur Canyon have made Katlar at Hólmatungur a quick detour within the northern end of Vatnajökull National Park. At Kaltar, the Jökulsá River narrows, and the whirlpools are enormous as if the river were boiling. This is quite a contrast to the quiet and clear spring water streams coming from underground ravines, opening into Hólmatungur. On the other side of the river is Forvöð, basalt cliffs accessible with an SUV from Route 862.

Katlar is along the Canyon Trail from Dettifoss to Ásbyrgi; the path continues to Vesturdalur and Hljóðaklettar from there. 

Orbis et Globus (The Arctic Circle Marker) 

Welcome to the Arctic Circle. At about 66° 34' N, a giant cannonball marks the polar circle on Iceland's only actual landmass in the Arctic Circle. To get here is a trip: a three-hour boat journey to Grímsey via Dalvík or a domestic flight with a small plane from Akureyri (AEY). From Grímsey’s settlement—an island community of 20 to 100 people depending on the season—the Orbis et Globus is roughly an hour's walk to the island's tip. The landmark by Kristinn E. Hrafnsson was revealed in 2017, its shape drawing on the gradual movement of the Arctic Circle as its latitude depends on the Earth's axial tilt. The Globus moves accordingly and will presumably be moved off a cliff eventually.

Kálfshamarsvík 

Kálfshamarsvík is a creek on the western side of The Skagi Peninsula. In the first decades of the 20th century and until the 1940s, fishing was plentiful in Kálfshamarsvík, and some 150 people wintered there at its peak. Today, a unique basalt floor leaves its mark on the landscape and a lighthouse from 1939. 

Fosslaug and Reykjafoss 

Fosslaug is a geothermal pool located near the Reykjafoss cascades. The word ‘hidden bath’ may not apply anymore, as its proximity to the Ring Road brings a steady number of people. But with luck, you have the muddy riverside pool to yourself. It is the size of a large Jacuzzi, fed by a hot spring to about 36-40°C (96–104°F) over summer; winter visitors have reported cold temperatures. 

Núpskatlar and Melrakkaslétta 

To all travelers charmed by desolated, end-of-the-world scenery: Consider a trip to Melrakkaslétta, the northernmost tip of Iceland. The strip is largely uninhabited today, but a gazillion seabirds spend the summer. On Route 870, turn at Núpskatla for an easy walk to a rare gannet colony. The Northern gannets are the largest seabirds in the North Atlantic and always nest on off-shore cliffs. 

Rauðanes Cape

Cape Rauðanes is a hidden gem in remote Þistilfjörður. These bizarre, beautiful rock formations and natural arches would be busier if this location were elsewhere. A marked path covers 7 km (4.3 miles) of easy walking along the coastal landscape, with a fair amount of grassland where puffins nest over summer. From the top of the tallest cliff, Háabjarg, there is a fantastic view and a walkable arch, which is hardly for those afraid of heights. 

Spring at Skeifárfoss. Look out for ringed seals and old fossils on the Tjörnes beach

Skeifárfoss

Skeifárfoss waterfall is on the Tjörnes Peninsula and is rarely visited despite the lovely coastal walk. The easiest access is from Tungulending, a guesthouse overlooking an old harbor. The turn-off to Tungulending is marked on Route 85, while the walking path to Skeifárfoss is not. Simply follow the coastline south for about half an hour; in other words, the walk begins on the beach below the Tungulending downhill drive. It is possible to approach the waterfall from the other side at  Köldukvíslarvirkjun Hydroelectric Dam, but it is a longer walk that requires getting barefoot for a river crossing. 

Drangey Island in Skagafjörður

Drangey Island

Icelandic legend Grettir the Strong allegedly swam to shore from Drangey Island. Tempted? Several people have tried (and succeeded) in modern times. The rest has just taken the boat from Sauðárkrókur. Drangey Tours sail to the dome-shaped island for a guided excursion and bird-watching; the island is a nesting site for 30,000 puffins. The lone rock next to the island is, of course, a petrified troll named Kerling.

Aldeyjarfoss Waterfall on the Skjálfandafljót River in North Iceland.

Bárðadalur Valley and Aldeyjarfoss

River Skjálfandafljót is best known for Goðafoss, a northern icon along the Ring Road. Seasoned travelers, however, love the river's Aldeyjarfoss. From Goðafoss, the drive to Aldeyjarfoss takes about 45 minutes via Bárðardalur Valley. The remote farmland borders the Highland region and Aldeyjarfoss in a vast lava field known as Ódáðahraun. Just 20m high, the journey and the surroundings make Aldeyjarfoss a memorable detour destination.