The Hvalfjörður Fjord is a forgotten gem near Reykjavík

In 1998, the Hvalfjörður Tunnel opened west of Reykjavík, cutting 42 kilometers (26 miles) off the Ring Road. While the tunnel offered a faster route, it turned Hvalfjörður—a scenic fjord known to anyone driving the Ring Road—into a peaceful detour, just a 45-minute drive from Reykjavík.

Today, the beautiful fjord, with its winding roads and pristine hiking paths, is being rediscovered by travelers and developers alike.

Here are five things to do in and around Hvalfjörður.

The Hvammsvík Hot Springs

The Hvammsvík Hot Springs merge with the shoreline as if baths were a part of the landscape. In reality, they are the vision of Icelandic entrepreneur Skúli Mogensen, who opened the 'nature resort' in 2022 on his family property overlooking the fjord. The superb design, a country-rustic style, is more exclusive than other bath resorts nearby Reykjavík; booking ahead is essential, and the on-site restaurant suits couples and small groups. (Note the impressive artwork in the entryway: The bar-hanging knots by Shoplifter and 'Cars in River' by Ólafur Elíasson.)

Water levels and temperatures in some of the pools fluctuate with the tide, and swimming in the sea is part of the fun—if not the therapy.

The Glymur Waterfall 

Glymur is Iceland’s second-tallest waterfall. Round trip to the 198-meter high falls means a multi-hour hike and possible river crossing.

The path to Glymur is a 7km loop starting in Botnsdalur at the fjord’s bottom, with some rewarding views over Hvalfjörður.

The route is only 400m in elevation but still moderately difficult, with two steep hills. It's not ideal for young children or the inexperienced. Hikers need to cross a river stream, either barefoot or wearing proper footwear, and those taking the entire loop will cross a second stream close to the waterfall. 

Prepare for a three-hour hike. For a shorter hike, turn around at Þvottahellir Cave. Avoid the hike when there is snow, ice, or thawing conditions—as walking along the cliffs is slippery and dangerous.

The War and Peace Museum 

In Iceland’s history, Hvalfjörður is known for two deadly industries: whaling and warfare. Allied forces guarded the fjord’s narrow mouth in the Second World War when Iceland was a strategic base. 

The War and Peace Museum tells the story of the convoys in the fjord during these historic years. At Miðsandur Farm is the largest preserved settlement of army barracks. 

Nearby Miðsandur is the Hvalstöðin whaling station, where whales are processed outdoors. 

The Fossárrétt Waterfall 

The pretty little waterfall at Fossárrétt, 300m from the main road, makes an excellent picnic spot. A traditional “rétt” structure sits by the river, once used to round up sheep in the area. 

Nearby is another scenic spot on the small Hvítanes peninsula, a former outpost in the Second World War. In late summer, the area is popular for berry picking. 

Mt. Esjan

Mt. Esjan, the iconic mountain dominating the view from Reykjavík’s coastline, is strictly speaking by the Kollafjörður Fjord but certainly on the way on the Hvalfjörður. 

Trekking the mountain is a favorite activity among Reykjavík locals. The best paths are along the Mógilsá River up to the Þverfellshorn summit. The final stretch is steep and only accessible during summer; most hikers stop at 800m (2625ft) by a large rock called the Stone (Steinn). 

Prepare for wind at the top and some three hours of hiking. Bus 57 to Akranes stops at Mt Esjan.

Akranes

The town closest to Hvalfjörður is the fishing hub of Akranes with a landmark lighthouse (the Akranesviti) and the "Long Sand Beach" popular for sea swimming. The ocean is cold – or at least, never warm – but fortunately, the Guðlaug Baths await the brave. The gorgeous baths, with a modest admission, are well worth a trip to the beach in any weather. Read the safety instructions before dipping into the sea. 

Getting to Hvalfjörður 

A rental car is the best way to visit Hvalfjörður. After passing the village of Kjalarnes by the Ring Road, look for the sign pointing to Route 47. If you drive inside a tunnel, you’ve passed the junction! 

Inside Hvalfjörður is a road less traveled to the Þingvellir National Park via Route 48, known as Kjósarskarðsvegur. The drive is lovely, but take precautions during winter. Keep an eye out for the  Þórufoss waterfall.

View a short video from Hvalfjörður here below.

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